Side view showing ‘handkerchief’ insets, which help form an ‘A’-line body fit. See ‘making’.
GARMENT MAKING STEPS
MAKING: Patches are cut in equal sizes: (18cm here) then pinned to lining shapes of all pattern pieces. Adjust shapes of patches as garment shape needs. (First define and cut garment shape pattern pieces with lining, which is easier than adding lining afterwards!). Here, a peachy shiny satin blouse was used for sleeve lining and standard black lining cut from dresses is used for the main body.
The bodice front and back and sleeves are joined by ‘princess-line’ seam which goes from front high-waist up and over shoulder to back high-waist. Skirt is made separately then joined to the bodice and sleeves. This allows for skirt section to be cut either slimline, or wider, enough to cover larger hip sizes, by patchwork tapering to top, or slight gathering or pleats at high waist line.
In Aldebaran, patched skirt section has narrowed patches towards top where meets upper bodice: i.e, start with wide enough whole skirt width to cover hip size, then taper patches upwards to high waistline seams.
Aldebaran bat sleeves showing 2 rows of patchwork with luxurious printed heavy satin lining. Note, shoulder patches are tapered, to slope towards lower sleeve. Front bodice and back bodice to be sewn to sleeve edges.
Tapering of patches as pinned, can be seen in images above and, machined below. At this stage, accurate fit is obtained by measuring bodice waist to ensure skirt pieces correspond. A further flare is achieved by inserted handkerchief flare.
Lining at side position is slit to enclose insert, or use existing side seam in skirt alterations.
‘Aldebaran Kimono Dress’ is available to buy on ETSY Shop
I have a good stock of ‘roses’ prints: or to commission a new one with your own favourite fabrics, please email Amelia with measurements. An e-pattern is being considered being made available for this design.