Tag: linen

09 Aug

Robes Summer Coats Originals 2009-10

Original range of linen and cotton patchwork robes

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Lilac Lotus
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Lilac Lotus
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Linen Cruise
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Jade Garden
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South Sea Bubble
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Lilac Lotus

Linen Cruise Robe  (sold)

Early inspiration followed acquiring a lot of parchment white linen. Teamed with white/navy prints and cream/white based patchwork prints.

Black cotton with pale grey embroidery was chosen for contrasting  collar/under-collar front facing, sleeve borders and sash.

This garment was chosen to feature with three others of mine at the 2013 Exhibition: Innovation in Textiles. See post Exhibition Totnes Costume Museum

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Linen Cruise sash tied
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Linen Cruise front open
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Linen Cruise modelled in Totnes Museum of Costume Exhibition
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Left Silk Painted panel copied from one of the patchwork prints

Oriental Cruise  Robe  (sold)

One of the earliest robes in large long patches of Cream and White Linen, Cotton and Viscose Prints of navy/white theme with added silk painted panels.

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Oriental Cruise

Sleeve upper silk patch is hand painted silk, an enlarged design copy of a smaller print used in other patches.

(Sold)

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Oriental Cruise back pleat
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Oriental Cruise front sash belt
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Oriental Cruise lower patched border

Lilac Lotus Robe

A feminine gown inspired by the parchment white linen and white embroidery anglais with added lilac silk, black & lilac polyester leopard print, taupe poly-cotton with pink and jade machine embroidery.  
Construction: Variety of oblong patches with back pleat for ease.
Lining:  Fully lined in white brushed cotton, extremely warm - suitable cool bedrooms.
Buttons: Two pale gold and white metal 'compass' design Liberty of London shop buttons.
Pocket: Right hand pocket in seam.
Collar, cuffs, Sash belt:  Thick white cotton embroidery with decorative 'embroidery Anglais'.
Back length:   46 inches/117cm
Bust size: 32" 36" for UK 10-12
Available at Shamanic Nights on ETSY.
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Bella model
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Judith Christie singer songwriter at Pilton Green Man Festival
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Lilac Lotus sleeve patch details
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Lilac lotus front patch details
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Lilac Lotus patchwork full length
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Lilac Lotus back view with pleat

Purple Raj Robe (sold)

Patchwork robe: cotton and viscose

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Purple Raj patchwork robe closed front

Patchwork Construction:

Back of robe starts with an experimental chevron layout: turning standard patchwork construction blocks 90 deg. which give a diagonal grain, like a bias cut, which improves the 'hang'.  Arranged patchwork continues over shoulders, where patchwork blocks extend down front on the strait grain.  Sides had odd angles to join, resulting in a deep kimono styled sleeve.

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Purple Raj robe, back diagonal patchwork

Jade Garden Robe

A substantial everlasting garment in heavy furnishing cottons with deep rolled collar, which would stand up for warmth.  Suitable as winter gift where warmth and style is a priority, so also suitable as summer coat.  Construction is three rows of oblong patches.  Belt has now changed to sash-belt in printed white/lilac printed cotton seen in other patches. Green fabric is embroidered taffeta, and must not be ironed hot or it melts.  Buttons are pewter.  Lining brown cotton lawn lower, with cream satin upper part including turned back sleeves.  Note: Coral is short, so this is a three quarter length robe for taller women.

Jade Garden robe available on Shamanic Nights shop ETSY

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Coral modelling Jade Garden summer coat
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Jade Garden Robe front buttons and collar
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Jade Garden Back view
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Jade Garden front view
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Print: trees
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Print: French farm maiden

South Sea Bubble Mini poncho style robe

Modelled by Coral and made when living in Cornwall, this patchwork was inspired by the viscose 'Bali' style print in blue, navy, lilac, olive.  Corordinate cottons and linens match these colours.  Construction is long rectangular patchworks, arranged diagonally starting across back ( see Purple Raj back ).  Very loose shape allows fit for fuller bust sizes due to waist deep kimono-style sleeve shapes, formed by the diagonal back patches.  Main lining: Pretty violet soft cotton with lilac flowers. Sleeve lining: Pretty lilac soft cotton flower print.   Buttons: 2 large black-mauve pearl.  Front fringed edge is purely decorative.

I would like to add a print or applique over the pale yellow which is rather pale in contrast to the black/purple.  Once on the lookout, something will turn up to match.

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Coral relaxes in the sea air in South Sea bubble
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South Sea Bubble front view with fringed front buttoning
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South Sea Bubble mini robe violet cotton lining
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South Sea Bubble back and sleeve
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South Sea bubble back view shows diagonal 'chevron' patch blocks
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South Sea bubble shoulder close up viscose print

South Sea bubble  is very loose fit at top due to poncho shape with only slightly formed sleeves. Size 16 on the hips. length 36 inches (910mm).  Front is joined by button so garment flows freely.  Available from Shamanic Nights ETSY shop

23 May

Exhibition – Totnes Costume Museum

Amelia Hoskins / Dressing Gown, Robe / / 0 Comments

Shamanic Nights was invited to exhibit at Totnes Costume Museum – Innovation and Fashion

Curated theme‭ 23rd May‭-‭ 14th June‭ ‬2011

Hilary Burns Exhibition Curator was an ex colleague I remembered from my textiles degree course, now a basket weaver; also moved to Devon.   She didn’t remember me clearly (her in weave, me in print depts), but it was uncanny how she picked up on my work at a craft fair, after 4 decades, and chose me.  A cycle of creative times.

Silk painted panels are lower right on cruise robes and left arm sleeve top. Designs copied from prints on robe, but enlarged scale.

Patchwork robes can be bespoke made to your measurements with your own fabrics.
Making fee: Short to knee – £140, Long – £175.00
Extra materials cost would be lining, as I do not stock new, although I have some thin white cotton in stock.

Totnes High Street.

Robes ‘Oriental Cruise’  (left) and ‘Mandarin’  (right) SOLD.

Read more

22 May

Ethical Fashion Commitment

Fascination with Fabrics colours and prints….

…continues to inspire my garment creations: unique, casual, sometimes luxurious: ethically sourced from recycled fabrics.

Fast fashion has encouraged the spendthrift and waste of textile materials.  So many cast-offs! Year on year, the plethora of higher quality garments donated to the ubiquitous high street charity shops increases.  Fabrics from high street store fashions have an incredibly long shelf life, but are sometimes discarded after one season’s wear or if the garment no longer fits. Even household fabrics are renewed more often than years ago. Such quality clothes have a long life left in them, often hardly worn at all: so the fabrics used can continue to be made into quality robes, dresses, skirts and jackets.  Clothes thrown out years ago, are still here, piling up in landfills. Rather than throwing away, we need to recycle all textiles as much as possible.

We need to discourage ‘fast fashion’, where profits come before cheap labour,  human energy waste, and resource depletion; particularly water.  Internationally based workers are paid lowly for many hours hard work just so someone can buy many things cheaply, only to cast them out after a short while, due to fashion dictates.

Shamanic Nights makes a personal commitment to hand crafted ‘slow fashion’ and ‘Up-cycled couture’  which better describes my craft work, as each garment is very carefully hand made from cut up recycled clothes found in Devon Charity Shops.  Results show how recycled textiles can still be beautiful, worthy and robust when discarded prematurely.

Linens are wonderful to work with: one pair of trousers provides large pieces, as does a flared skirt. Dresses and blouses provide prints and lace.  I choose good quality cotton, linen, viscose and silk mostly, for summer dresses. Previously I wouldn’t work with polyester due to the chemicals used in manufacturing, and the issue that it never biodegrades, however, now to save some from landfill, I have started using polyester fabrics as lining for dresses and gowns. Synthetic fibres like polyester for clothes are one of the worst inventions ever! They don’t biodegrade for hundreds of years, and eventually leach their chemicals out of landfill.

Every garment I make is unique, governed by the limited supply of printed fabric components available for each garment, usually at least three, and up to seven different fabrics create the patchwork.

Patchwork joining Cherry Fluzzie B   Patchwork joining Love Never Dies

Patchwork joining ‘Aldebaran‘            Patchwork joining ‘Purple Shimmers’

Composition of colours and cloth

Penny's Pinafore in blue linen, black embroidery anglais, and vintage print of French cafe life.
 
Design starts with assessing which colours I have to coordinate with.
Then whilst dwelling on the appearance of the different prints and plains together, a garment style may present itself.
 
Penny’s Pinafore in turquoise blue linen, black embroidery Anglais, and vintage print of French cafe life is a good example.  The black outlines in the French Cafe print inspired the use of black lace; the blue-green of the print matched will with the blue linen.
Sold to Penny on first showing at Exeter Phoenix crafts day.
 

 

Growing and processing COTTON – requires a lot of water.  Avoid pesticides by buying organic.

In wealthier western nations, there has been a ground swell of interest in organic cotton; grown without pesticide use, as more people become aware of soil contamination.  Fertilizers are expensive for farmers in poorer countries, making crops less profitable.  Whilst organic cotton is all the rage, cotton itself requires so much water to grow and process, that in the long run it’s not sustainable.   It takes 8,500 litres to make enough cotton for a pair of jeans. This is clearly unsustainable,  even immoral, when many areas of the world suffer drought.  The Aral Sea has dried up due to the over use of its water for Uzbekistan cotton growing.

 

Using what we have already

For these reasons I believe more businesses will take on this challenge; to produce textile products from recycled fabrics, that customers will want just as much as new. Up-cycled Clothing has become mainstream, with increasing numbers of inspired fashion designers making clothes from UP-CYCLED and VINTAGE fabrics and sharing their ideas on Pinterest and selling on ETSY.  One of the best things everyone can do is to stop buying more new stuffTake a fresh look at what we already have. Look in your wardrobe; if you don’t wear something, but love the fabric, then it can be taken apart, cut it up and made into something new; enhanced by adding another recycled garment-fabric to the mix.   I can take commissions using your own fabrics.

Good quality fabrics can last many years.  The only fabric which will not wear well is mixtures with acrylic or polyester, as the acrylic polymer threads always ‘catch’ and ruck up bobbly, making a garment surface look ‘worn out’ and certainly undesirable.  Visose is an ideal fabric.

My unique colourful one-off bespoke casual leisure garments are available to buy online. (Shop under revised construction) Alternative is my ETSY shop

Some Shamanic Nights garments have painted silk designs by  Amelia Jane Designs  on my other site, where you can find textile designs – paint on paper – remaining designs from 1990’s international freelance textile works.

A motivating factor for recycling is also linked to awareness of other pollution in the environment from the use of chemicals : In water, crop growing pesticides, fracking, fabric manufacture, industrial dyestuffs.   [Articles have been moved from the now closed Google Plus site on to synthetic-agenda.com – site under construction – with more being added regularly.]
22 May

Kimono-Dress Purple Shimmers

Sumptuous Purple Robe Dress

Faux Kimono-styled, deep sleeves extended from high waist

Wide patchwork sleeve
Full back width dress patchwork purples gathered high waist
Back upper is fitted shape, from where bat sleeves join ‘princess’ seaming
Kimono dress front view lace front tied   One pocket at front. Kimono styled collar extends into high waist
Full back view of dress indoors light, high waisted gathers for hip fullness.

Shape is cut for fitted bodice front and back with bat-wing (kimono – like) sleeves extending from shoulders to high waist.  Full lower skirt area.

Expandable front lacing over cotton patch centre piece.

Front lacing over fixed inside panel, usefully adjusts bust size from 36″ to 40″

Kimono dress front view wide arm across front

Sleeves have cuffs which will turn back at the seam for tasking.

Front collar and lacings detail close up

Notice collar, although a proper one, is caught down into high waist seaming at front, which could be thinner if copying idea, and stitch down to a point where it meets gusset (which I would do for a smaller summer dress)

Kimono Dress front collar and sleeve joins top front section
-2018-03-27.png” alt=”GMP annotated – Finished, (VVG FRONT, SLEEVES)clear bright right sleeve 2018-03-27″ />
Gorgeous patchwork colours form treasure trove arrangement.  Generous fit up to 40 bust:  Sleeves are kimono style loose, starting from below bust line.  Lace ties ensure fit under bust.  Back bodice top is already fitted to body, with gathers below

To buy ‘Purple Shimmers’or to commission similar, visit ETSY shop

Purple Patchwork Kimono-Dress – Creation Journey

Coordinated fabric collection in purples

Purples ‘collection’ cut, washed and collated from other garments.
Purple fabric collection_edited_2018-02-03

Three or four plains and three to four prints, with maybe another contrasting plain works well.  5 – 7 different fabrics are needed for a good patchwork result.  I used all these fabrics except for the hand dyed silk 3rd from right.  (Later it went into ‘Butterflies and Pansies‘ dress as sleeves. )

Charity shop finds to match existing purple fabrics.  The shiny dress will become lining.
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When cutting up garments for patchwork, cut up along the sides of all seams.  Sometimes cotton and linen seams can be ripped undone, and more fabric saved.  Overall, unpicking is not worth the time it takes.

Sometimes there is small barely detectable fabric damage or weave pulls as there was in this blouse, near darts.  In such case, don’t undo the seam where stitches have pulled.  This blouse had been strained around the front dart seams.  Due to inherent weakness in the loose weave, this fabric will be quilt-machined onto a thin cotton backing, to preserve the print and to ensure it stays firm.

Many parts of a garment can be recycled into a different new garment, such as this lace-styled neck.  It won’t be included in the kimono, but it will form the start of another dress, likely to be with navy, if only the lace is used, or navy and pink if the print is kept.

The fabric used from this top is a stretch T-shirt type cotton, so will be firstly quilt machined onto a cotton, for firmness in patches, to be similar in weight to the linen and taffeta.  If used only in its stretch state, it may cause a slight ‘baggyness’ in parts of the patchwork.  This remaining cut-off lace neckline will form a new dress with the navy and pinks in other fabrics.

(Full ‘Making Diary’ was not completed for this garment, for reasons not recalled.)
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