Exhibition Curator Hilary Burns I remembered from 1970s Textiles Degree course. She studied weave; myself silk screen printing. Now a basket weaver, she had also moved to Devon. It was uncanny how she spotted my work at a craft fair and chose for the exhibition.
Named for a Mandarin-style collar made with a strip on a curve (cut x 2 on bias): Piped edge in black; also on pockets. Patchworks of equal 8 inch x 4 inch. For attractive 'turn-ups', use contrasting fabric. Sleeves have faux turn-ups by adding black lace layer below last black patch layer, which turns back to be stitched also 2 inches up inside lining, to reveal black/white striped cotton-satin lining. The seam formed when stitching to lining, gives a thicker strong line, which will enable a turn-up to sit at the fold-up nicely.
Dress hem is same black lace as end of sleeves. Adding a bottom hem layer 'frames' the garment together; cut double to stitch down inside, encasing the edges of the upper patchwork. Dress uses same striped fabric for front facing lining for interest.