Tag: leisure

09 Aug

Robes Summer Coats Originals 2009-10

Original range of linen and cotton patchwork robes

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Lilac Lotus
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Lilac Lotus
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Linen Cruise
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Jade Garden
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South Sea Bubble
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Lilac Lotus

Linen Cruise Robe  (sold)

Early inspiration followed acquiring a lot of parchment white linen. Teamed with white/navy prints and cream/white based patchwork prints.

Black cotton with pale grey embroidery was chosen for contrasting  collar/under-collar front facing, sleeve borders and sash.

This garment was chosen to feature with three others of mine at the 2013 Exhibition: Innovation in Textiles. See post Exhibition Totnes Costume Museum

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Linen Cruise sash tied
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Linen Cruise front open
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Linen Cruise modelled in Totnes Museum of Costume Exhibition
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Left Silk Painted panel copied from one of the patchwork prints

Oriental Cruise  Robe  (sold)

One of the earliest robes in large long patches of Cream and White Linen, Cotton and Viscose Prints of navy/white theme with added silk painted panels.

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Oriental Cruise

Sleeve upper silk patch is hand painted silk, an enlarged design copy of a smaller print used in other patches.

(Sold)

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Oriental Cruise back pleat
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Oriental Cruise front sash belt
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Oriental Cruise lower patched border

Lilac Lotus Robe

A feminine gown inspired by the parchment white linen and white embroidery anglais with added lilac silk, black & lilac polyester leopard print, taupe poly-cotton with pink and jade machine embroidery.  
Construction: Variety of oblong patches with back pleat for ease.
Lining:  Fully lined in white brushed cotton, extremely warm - suitable cool bedrooms.
Buttons: Two pale gold and white metal 'compass' design Liberty of London shop buttons.
Pocket: Right hand pocket in seam.
Collar, cuffs, Sash belt:  Thick white cotton embroidery with decorative 'embroidery Anglais'.
Back length:   46 inches/117cm
Bust size: 32" 36" for UK 10-12
Available at Shamanic Nights on ETSY.
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Bella model
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Judith Christie singer songwriter at Pilton Green Man Festival
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Lilac Lotus sleeve patch details
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Lilac lotus front patch details
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Lilac Lotus patchwork full length
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Lilac Lotus back view with pleat

Purple Raj Robe (sold)

Patchwork robe: cotton and viscose

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Purple Raj patchwork robe closed front

Patchwork Construction:

Back of robe starts with an experimental chevron layout: turning standard patchwork construction blocks 90 deg. which give a diagonal grain, like a bias cut, which improves the 'hang'.  Arranged patchwork continues over shoulders, where patchwork blocks extend down front on the strait grain.  Sides had odd angles to join, resulting in a deep kimono styled sleeve.

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Purple Raj robe, back diagonal patchwork

Jade Garden Robe

A substantial everlasting garment in heavy furnishing cottons with deep rolled collar, which would stand up for warmth.  Suitable as winter gift where warmth and style is a priority, so also suitable as summer coat.  Construction is three rows of oblong patches.  Belt has now changed to sash-belt in printed white/lilac printed cotton seen in other patches. Green fabric is embroidered taffeta, and must not be ironed hot or it melts.  Buttons are pewter.  Lining brown cotton lawn lower, with cream satin upper part including turned back sleeves.  Note: Coral is short, so this is a three quarter length robe for taller women.

Jade Garden robe available on Shamanic Nights shop ETSY

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Coral modelling Jade Garden summer coat
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Jade Garden Robe front buttons and collar
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Jade Garden Back view
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Jade Garden front view
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Print: trees
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Print: French farm maiden

South Sea Bubble Mini poncho style robe

Modelled by Coral and made when living in Cornwall, this patchwork was inspired by the viscose 'Bali' style print in blue, navy, lilac, olive.  Corordinate cottons and linens match these colours.  Construction is long rectangular patchworks, arranged diagonally starting across back ( see Purple Raj back ).  Very loose shape allows fit for fuller bust sizes due to waist deep kimono-style sleeve shapes, formed by the diagonal back patches.  Main lining: Pretty violet soft cotton with lilac flowers. Sleeve lining: Pretty lilac soft cotton flower print.   Buttons: 2 large black-mauve pearl.  Front fringed edge is purely decorative.

I would like to add a print or applique over the pale yellow which is rather pale in contrast to the black/purple.  Once on the lookout, something will turn up to match.

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Coral relaxes in the sea air in South Sea bubble
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South Sea Bubble front view with fringed front buttoning
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South Sea Bubble mini robe violet cotton lining
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South Sea Bubble back and sleeve
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South Sea bubble back view shows diagonal 'chevron' patch blocks
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South Sea bubble shoulder close up viscose print

South Sea bubble  is very loose fit at top due to poncho shape with only slightly formed sleeves. Size 16 on the hips. length 36 inches (910mm).  Front is joined by button so garment flows freely.  Available from Shamanic Nights ETSY shop

23 May

Exhibition – Totnes Costume Museum

Amelia Hoskins / Dressing Gown, Robe / / 0 Comments

Shamanic Nights was invited to exhibit at Totnes Costume Museum – Innovation and Fashion

Curated theme‭ 23rd May‭-‭ 14th June‭ ‬2011

Hilary Burns Exhibition Curator was an ex colleague I remembered from my textiles degree course, now a basket weaver; also moved to Devon.   She didn’t remember me clearly (her in weave, me in print depts), but it was uncanny how she picked up on my work at a craft fair, after 4 decades, and chose me.  A cycle of creative times.

Silk painted panels are lower right on cruise robes and left arm sleeve top. Designs copied from prints on robe, but enlarged scale.

Patchwork robes can be bespoke made to your measurements with your own fabrics.
Making fee: Short to knee – £140, Long – £175.00
Extra materials cost would be lining, as I do not stock new, although I have some thin white cotton in stock.

Totnes High Street.

Robes ‘Oriental Cruise’  (left) and ‘Mandarin’  (right) SOLD.

Read more

23 May

Author Maker

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Up-cycled patchwork couture‘ better describes my craft, as each garment is very carefully hand made from scratch, using cut up recycled clothes.  My casual women’s wear: dresses, jackets, skirts, dressing gowns, coat-dresses, pinafore dresses and robes are real ‘slow’ fashion; unique one-off garments.

All garments are made exclusively from recycled fabrics; good quality cotton, linen, viscose and silk, with viscose or polyester linings, chosen from the plethora of good clothes in the charity outlets which proliferate in the UK high streets.  I used to abhor polyester, but In 2018 I started using polyester dress prints as inside linings to garments, as it never degrades it must be used.  The design process is one of being inspired by the groupings of fabrics into colourways, weights and textures.  These are collected and added to the ‘colour baskets’ whenever I have found a new piece for a colourway I have in waiting.  Many ‘ladies-in-waiting’.

 

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WPPB Image Addons
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WPPB Image Addons
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WPPB Image Addons

Silk paintings are sometimes included in the patchwork garments, and a relevant informative blog will also appear in this site along with their composite garment.  Videos are available of some silk painting works.

Ahimsa ‘Peace’ silk (which allows the silk worm’s cycle to complete) is used for my silk painting when available as offcuts from a fashion maker; not as shiny as new Habotai silk, already stocked, but does have a lovely sheen after natural plant dyeing.  Kniazeff professional silk dyes are used, which when steamed, impregnate and fixes the colour through both sides, (unlike some silk paintings of surface-only fabric dyes).  Garments with silk painting have all been machine washed and even the darker colours are proven not to bleed dye.  (Note: these wonderful dyes are no longer available from my supplier and I continue to eak out their remaining existence.)

After ceasing 6yr solid stint in commercial freelance textile design selling through international trade fairs with London studios, I moved to Devon, with two children ready for high school, in 1994.  I brought along to Chudleigh Wheelcraft Centre craft studios, £200 worth of silk dyes and started learning the techniques directly applied onto pictures and cushions; also starting dress silk panels. (add old photo links)

All fabrics are washed at 60 degrees, to prevent shrinkage at variable rates.  40 degree wash thereafter is recommended. 

Five garments may go into one new garment, giving a basic materials cost of £15 – £40 on average: not a cheap option, which needs appreciating when considering final garment costs, but the new creation process is nevertheless very satisfying.

Detailed information about the designing process, cutting and sewing, are often uploaded to this site during making and when a garment is finally finished.  There is sometimes a delay between finishing blog and garment appearing in ETSY shop, but all enquiries welcome by email

This blog site is to be a portfolio of garments made and sold, (plus the dye processes).  Newer garments will appear on a new site layout.  I started selling at local craft events, and have and some garments are available in my ETSY shop.  ( Online Shop  currently under re-construction. )  Half of the garments on the website shop are now sold, but they stay as an example of making, to inspire others, and as a guide to what commissions may be possible.

For bespoke commissions with your own up-cycled clothes, using garments no longer fitting, or print designs you would like to give a new life – and a silk painting if wished – contact me via email.

Email Amelia J Hoskins (owner)

Shamanic Nights Fashions Board on Pinterest (Amelia Jane Designs)

22 May

Design Philosophy

Harmonisation with Discarded Fabrics

Design inspiration comes from seeing themes evolve between disparate fabric prints and colours, rescued to be recreated into a new unique garment artwork.

As an artist and trained textile designer, I have a keen eye for the illustration and patterns in textile dress prints. The prints I source and collect are variously of classical floral illustrative, mille-fleur coverage (tiny flowers), geometric, and astral (space cloud blurred, dotted and muted effect).  A combination of all these together with coordinating plain colours makes a good patchwork.

Not all prints are of personal favourite by themselves, but depending on their colours, I will see a way they would contrast or blend within a theme.  A dress full of rose bouquets can be cut up to introduce patch areas highlighting the best flowers.  A smaller piece of fabric can become more special than the full repeated print area.

Cotton lace tops (often cotton/acrylic mix) are another good find, as they can be layered over other colours.  Most synthetic lace fabrics also surprisingly take up plant dye to some extent, which removes any stark whiteness, too brilliant for patches amongst colours.

Choosing a print fabric to start with, start to make a pile with other colours and prints (5 is usually sufficient to start with).  As you do this, one choice may be removed and replaced with another, as the combined effect literally ‘shouts’ too dark, too light, too blue, too pink, etc., depending on the theme in mind. The most subtle patchwork is when the overall effect is of fabrics of a similar tone; i.e. nothing too light, nor too dark, on its own.  I often do include black with a strong colour collection, due to its fashion favouritism, but am more careful with lighter tones and darks mixed, when making patch-worked garments using panels larger than traditional patchwork.

Silk Painting Inspirations

The print designs in each fabric collection suggest new design themes using their elements to create a silk painted panel, or I may simply use some elements to copy combined with other images of my own.  It may inspire towards a new design theme to be developed further again; .  Colour mixing dyes to match the existing prints is an essential skill.

Scale can be considered here: a specific image from existing prints can be enlarged as a feature.

 

22 May

Kimono Dress Aldebaran

Amelia Hoskins / Dress, Kimono / / 0 Comments

“The reddish star Aldebaran – the fiery eye of the Bull in the constellation Taurus – is an ageing star and a huge star! The computed diameter is between 35 and 40 solar diameters.”

Aldebaran Info site…

Orange and red flowers in patchwork fabrics; combined with the motley space print, and black ‘deep space’ backgrounds, inspired the name Aldebaran.

 

Side view showing ‘handkerchief’ insets, which help form an ‘A’-line body fit.  See ‘making’.

Front lacings allow individual body-fit; adjustable to bust size 36-42 inch.  Lacing can be removed completely and front left opened.
The reds, rust, and star-like lighter flowers on black inspires deep space, with the grand star of Aldebaran.

GARMENT MAKING STEPS

MAKING:  Patches are cut in equal sizes: (18cm here) then pinned to lining shapes of all pattern pieces.  Adjust shapes of patches as garment shape needs.  (First define and cut garment shape pattern pieces with lining, which is easier than adding lining afterwards!).  Here, a peachy shiny satin blouse was used for sleeve lining and standard black lining cut from dresses is used for the main body.

The bodice front and back and sleeves are joined by ‘princess-line’ seam which goes from front high-waist up and over shoulder to back high-waist.  Skirt is made separately then joined to the bodice and sleeves. This allows for skirt section to be cut either slimline, or wider, enough to cover larger hip sizes, by patchwork tapering to top, or slight gathering or pleats at high waist line.

In Aldebaran, patched skirt section has narrowed patches towards top where meets upper bodice: i.e, start with wide enough whole skirt width to cover hip size, then taper patches upwards to high waistline seams.

Aldebaran bat sleeves showing 2 rows of patchwork with luxurious printed heavy satin lining.  Note, shoulder patches are tapered, to slope towards lower sleeve.  Front bodice and back bodice to be sewn to sleeve edges.

Right sides to be sewn together at mid back seam joins: two processes, machine patch-worked pieces at center joins, machine lining pieces at center joins.

Tapering of patches as pinned, can be seen in images above and, machined below.  At this stage, accurate fit is obtained by measuring bodice waist to ensure skirt pieces correspond.  A further flare is achieved by inserted handkerchief flare.

Handkerchief Insets

Lining at side position is slit to enclose insert, or use existing side seam in skirt alterations.

Aldebaran Kimono Dress’  is available to buy on ETSY Shop

I have a good stock of ‘roses’ prints: or to commission a new one with your own favourite fabrics, please email Amelia with measurements.  An e-pattern is being considered being made available for this design.

 

22 May

Kimono-Dress Purple Shimmers

Sumptuous Purple Robe Dress

Faux Kimono-styled, deep sleeves extended from high waist

Wide patchwork sleeve
Full back width dress patchwork purples gathered high waist
Back upper is fitted shape, from where bat sleeves join ‘princess’ seaming
Kimono dress front view lace front tied   One pocket at front. Kimono styled collar extends into high waist
Full back view of dress indoors light, high waisted gathers for hip fullness.

Shape is cut for fitted bodice front and back with bat-wing (kimono – like) sleeves extending from shoulders to high waist.  Full lower skirt area.

Expandable front lacing over cotton patch centre piece.

Front lacing over fixed inside panel, usefully adjusts bust size from 36″ to 40″

Kimono dress front view wide arm across front

Sleeves have cuffs which will turn back at the seam for tasking.

Front collar and lacings detail close up

Notice collar, although a proper one, is caught down into high waist seaming at front, which could be thinner if copying idea, and stitch down to a point where it meets gusset (which I would do for a smaller summer dress)

Kimono Dress front collar and sleeve joins top front section
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Gorgeous patchwork colours form treasure trove arrangement.  Generous fit up to 40 bust:  Sleeves are kimono style loose, starting from below bust line.  Lace ties ensure fit under bust.  Back bodice top is already fitted to body, with gathers below

To buy ‘Purple Shimmers’or to commission similar, visit ETSY shop

Purple Patchwork Kimono-Dress – Creation Journey

Coordinated fabric collection in purples

Purples ‘collection’ cut, washed and collated from other garments.
Purple fabric collection_edited_2018-02-03

Three or four plains and three to four prints, with maybe another contrasting plain works well.  5 – 7 different fabrics are needed for a good patchwork result.  I used all these fabrics except for the hand dyed silk 3rd from right.  (Later it went into ‘Butterflies and Pansies‘ dress as sleeves. )

Charity shop finds to match existing purple fabrics.  The shiny dress will become lining.
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When cutting up garments for patchwork, cut up along the sides of all seams.  Sometimes cotton and linen seams can be ripped undone, and more fabric saved.  Overall, unpicking is not worth the time it takes.

Sometimes there is small barely detectable fabric damage or weave pulls as there was in this blouse, near darts.  In such case, don’t undo the seam where stitches have pulled.  This blouse had been strained around the front dart seams.  Due to inherent weakness in the loose weave, this fabric will be quilt-machined onto a thin cotton backing, to preserve the print and to ensure it stays firm.

Many parts of a garment can be recycled into a different new garment, such as this lace-styled neck.  It won’t be included in the kimono, but it will form the start of another dress, likely to be with navy, if only the lace is used, or navy and pink if the print is kept.

The fabric used from this top is a stretch T-shirt type cotton, so will be firstly quilt machined onto a cotton, for firmness in patches, to be similar in weight to the linen and taffeta.  If used only in its stretch state, it may cause a slight ‘baggyness’ in parts of the patchwork.  This remaining cut-off lace neckline will form a new dress with the navy and pinks in other fabrics.

(Full ‘Making Diary’ was not completed for this garment, for reasons not recalled.)
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