Tag: fabrics

23 May

Exhibition – Totnes Costume Museum

Amelia Hoskins / Dressing Gown, Robe / / 0 Comments

Shamanic Nights was invited to exhibit at Totnes Costume Museum – Innovation and Fashion

Curated theme‭ 23rd May‭-‭ 14th June‭ ‬2011

Hilary Burns Exhibition Curator was an ex colleague I remembered from my textiles degree course, now a basket weaver; also moved to Devon.   She didn’t remember me clearly (her in weave, me in print depts), but it was uncanny how she picked up on my work at a craft fair, after 4 decades, and chose me.  A cycle of creative times.

Silk painted panels are lower right on cruise robes and left arm sleeve top. Designs copied from prints on robe, but enlarged scale.

Patchwork robes can be bespoke made to your measurements with your own fabrics.
Making fee: Short to knee – £140, Long – £175.00
Extra materials cost would be lining, as I do not stock new, although I have some thin white cotton in stock.

Totnes High Street.

Robes ‘Oriental Cruise’  (left) and ‘Mandarin’  (right) SOLD.

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23 May

Author Maker

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Up-cycled patchwork couture‘ better describes my craft, as each garment is very carefully hand made from scratch, using cut up recycled clothes.  My casual women’s wear: dresses, jackets, skirts, dressing gowns, coat-dresses, pinafore dresses and robes are real ‘slow’ fashion; unique one-off garments.

All garments are made exclusively from recycled fabrics; good quality cotton, linen, viscose and silk, with viscose or polyester linings, chosen from the plethora of good clothes in the charity outlets which proliferate in the UK high streets.  I used to abhor polyester, but In 2018 I started using polyester dress prints as inside linings to garments, as it never degrades it must be used.  The design process is one of being inspired by the groupings of fabrics into colourways, weights and textures.  These are collected and added to the ‘colour baskets’ whenever I have found a new piece for a colourway I have in waiting.  Many ‘ladies-in-waiting’.

 

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Silk paintings are sometimes included in the patchwork garments, and a relevant informative blog will also appear in this site along with their composite garment.  Videos are available of some silk painting works.

Ahimsa ‘Peace’ silk (which allows the silk worm’s cycle to complete) is used for my silk painting when available as offcuts from a fashion maker; not as shiny as new Habotai silk, already stocked, but does have a lovely sheen after natural plant dyeing.  Kniazeff professional silk dyes are used, which when steamed, impregnate and fixes the colour through both sides, (unlike some silk paintings of surface-only fabric dyes).  Garments with silk painting have all been machine washed and even the darker colours are proven not to bleed dye.  (Note: these wonderful dyes are no longer available from my supplier and I continue to eak out their remaining existence.)

After ceasing 6yr solid stint in commercial freelance textile design selling through international trade fairs with London studios, I moved to Devon, with two children ready for high school, in 1994.  I brought along to Chudleigh Wheelcraft Centre craft studios, £200 worth of silk dyes and started learning the techniques directly applied onto pictures and cushions; also starting dress silk panels. (add old photo links)

All fabrics are washed at 60 degrees, to prevent shrinkage at variable rates.  40 degree wash thereafter is recommended. 

Five garments may go into one new garment, giving a basic materials cost of £15 – £40 on average: not a cheap option, which needs appreciating when considering final garment costs, but the new creation process is nevertheless very satisfying.

Detailed information about the designing process, cutting and sewing, are often uploaded to this site during making and when a garment is finally finished.  There is sometimes a delay between finishing blog and garment appearing in ETSY shop, but all enquiries welcome by email

This blog site is to be a portfolio of garments made and sold, (plus the dye processes).  Newer garments will appear on a new site layout.  I started selling at local craft events, and have and some garments are available in my ETSY shop.  ( Online Shop  currently under re-construction. )  Half of the garments on the website shop are now sold, but they stay as an example of making, to inspire others, and as a guide to what commissions may be possible.

For bespoke commissions with your own up-cycled clothes, using garments no longer fitting, or print designs you would like to give a new life – and a silk painting if wished – contact me via email.

Email Amelia J Hoskins (owner)

Shamanic Nights Fashions Board on Pinterest (Amelia Jane Designs)

22 May

Design Philosophy

Harmonisation with Discarded Fabrics

Design inspiration comes from seeing themes evolve between disparate fabric prints and colours, rescued to be recreated into a new unique garment artwork.

As an artist and trained textile designer, I have a keen eye for the illustration and patterns in textile dress prints. The prints I source and collect are variously of classical floral illustrative, mille-fleur coverage (tiny flowers), geometric, and astral (space cloud blurred, dotted and muted effect).  A combination of all these together with coordinating plain colours makes a good patchwork.

Not all prints are of personal favourite by themselves, but depending on their colours, I will see a way they would contrast or blend within a theme.  A dress full of rose bouquets can be cut up to introduce patch areas highlighting the best flowers.  A smaller piece of fabric can become more special than the full repeated print area.

Cotton lace tops (often cotton/acrylic mix) are another good find, as they can be layered over other colours.  Most synthetic lace fabrics also surprisingly take up plant dye to some extent, which removes any stark whiteness, too brilliant for patches amongst colours.

Choosing a print fabric to start with, start to make a pile with other colours and prints (5 is usually sufficient to start with).  As you do this, one choice may be removed and replaced with another, as the combined effect literally ‘shouts’ too dark, too light, too blue, too pink, etc., depending on the theme in mind. The most subtle patchwork is when the overall effect is of fabrics of a similar tone; i.e. nothing too light, nor too dark, on its own.  I often do include black with a strong colour collection, due to its fashion favouritism, but am more careful with lighter tones and darks mixed, when making patch-worked garments using panels larger than traditional patchwork.

Silk Painting Inspirations

The print designs in each fabric collection suggest new design themes using their elements to create a silk painted panel, or I may simply use some elements to copy combined with other images of my own.  It may inspire towards a new design theme to be developed further again; .  Colour mixing dyes to match the existing prints is an essential skill.

Scale can be considered here: a specific image from existing prints can be enlarged as a feature.

 

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