Category: Kimono

22 May

Kimono Dress Aldebaran

Amelia Hoskins / Dress, Kimono / / 0 Comments

“The reddish star Aldebaran – the fiery eye of the Bull in the constellation Taurus – is an ageing star and a huge star! The computed diameter is between 35 and 40 solar diameters.”

Aldebaran Info site…

Orange and red flowers in patchwork fabrics; combined with the motley space print, and black ‘deep space’ backgrounds, inspired the name Aldebaran.

 

Side view showing ‘handkerchief’ insets, which help form an ‘A’-line body fit.  See ‘making’.

Front lacings allow individual body-fit; adjustable to bust size 36-42 inch.  Lacing can be removed completely and front left opened.
The reds, rust, and star-like lighter flowers on black inspires deep space, with the grand star of Aldebaran.

GARMENT MAKING STEPS

MAKING:  Patches are cut in equal sizes: (18cm here) then pinned to lining shapes of all pattern pieces.  Adjust shapes of patches as garment shape needs.  (First define and cut garment shape pattern pieces with lining, which is easier than adding lining afterwards!).  Here, a peachy shiny satin blouse was used for sleeve lining and standard black lining cut from dresses is used for the main body.

The bodice front and back and sleeves are joined by ‘princess-line’ seam which goes from front high-waist up and over shoulder to back high-waist.  Skirt is made separately then joined to the bodice and sleeves. This allows for skirt section to be cut either slimline, or wider, enough to cover larger hip sizes, by patchwork tapering to top, or slight gathering or pleats at high waist line.

In Aldebaran, patched skirt section has narrowed patches towards top where meets upper bodice: i.e, start with wide enough whole skirt width to cover hip size, then taper patches upwards to high waistline seams.

Aldebaran bat sleeves showing 2 rows of patchwork with luxurious printed heavy satin lining.  Note, shoulder patches are tapered, to slope towards lower sleeve.  Front bodice and back bodice to be sewn to sleeve edges.

Right sides to be sewn together at mid back seam joins: two processes, machine patch-worked pieces at center joins, machine lining pieces at center joins.

Tapering of patches as pinned, can be seen in images above and, machined below.  At this stage, accurate fit is obtained by measuring bodice waist to ensure skirt pieces correspond.  A further flare is achieved by inserted handkerchief flare.

Handkerchief Insets

Lining at side position is slit to enclose insert, or use existing side seam in skirt alterations.

Aldebaran Kimono Dress’  is available to buy on ETSY Shop

I have a good stock of ‘roses’ prints: or to commission a new one with your own favourite fabrics, please email Amelia with measurements.  An e-pattern is being considered being made available for this design.

 

22 May

Kimono-Dress Purple Shimmers

Sumptuous Purple Robe Dress

Faux Kimono-styled, deep sleeves extended from high waist

Wide patchwork sleeve
Full back width dress patchwork purples gathered high waist
Back upper is fitted shape, from where bat sleeves join ‘princess’ seaming
Kimono dress front view lace front tied   One pocket at front. Kimono styled collar extends into high waist
Full back view of dress indoors light, high waisted gathers for hip fullness.

Shape is cut for fitted bodice front and back with bat-wing (kimono – like) sleeves extending from shoulders to high waist.  Full lower skirt area.

Expandable front lacing over cotton patch centre piece.

Front lacing over fixed inside panel, usefully adjusts bust size from 36″ to 40″

Kimono dress front view wide arm across front

Sleeves have cuffs which will turn back at the seam for tasking.

Front collar and lacings detail close up

Notice collar, although a proper one, is caught down into high waist seaming at front, which could be thinner if copying idea, and stitch down to a point where it meets gusset (which I would do for a smaller summer dress)

Kimono Dress front collar and sleeve joins top front section
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Gorgeous patchwork colours form treasure trove arrangement.  Generous fit up to 40 bust:  Sleeves are kimono style loose, starting from below bust line.  Lace ties ensure fit under bust.  Back bodice top is already fitted to body, with gathers below

To buy ‘Purple Shimmers’or to commission similar, visit ETSY shop

Purple Patchwork Kimono-Dress – Creation Journey

Coordinated fabric collection in purples

Purples ‘collection’ cut, washed and collated from other garments.
Purple fabric collection_edited_2018-02-03

Three or four plains and three to four prints, with maybe another contrasting plain works well.  5 – 7 different fabrics are needed for a good patchwork result.  I used all these fabrics except for the hand dyed silk 3rd from right.  (Later it went into ‘Butterflies and Pansies‘ dress as sleeves. )

Charity shop finds to match existing purple fabrics.  The shiny dress will become lining.
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When cutting up garments for patchwork, cut up along the sides of all seams.  Sometimes cotton and linen seams can be ripped undone, and more fabric saved.  Overall, unpicking is not worth the time it takes.

Sometimes there is small barely detectable fabric damage or weave pulls as there was in this blouse, near darts.  In such case, don’t undo the seam where stitches have pulled.  This blouse had been strained around the front dart seams.  Due to inherent weakness in the loose weave, this fabric will be quilt-machined onto a thin cotton backing, to preserve the print and to ensure it stays firm.

Many parts of a garment can be recycled into a different new garment, such as this lace-styled neck.  It won’t be included in the kimono, but it will form the start of another dress, likely to be with navy, if only the lace is used, or navy and pink if the print is kept.

The fabric used from this top is a stretch T-shirt type cotton, so will be firstly quilt machined onto a cotton, for firmness in patches, to be similar in weight to the linen and taffeta.  If used only in its stretch state, it may cause a slight ‘baggyness’ in parts of the patchwork.  This remaining cut-off lace neckline will form a new dress with the navy and pinks in other fabrics.

(Full ‘Making Diary’ was not completed for this garment, for reasons not recalled.)
Shamanic Nights background image