Category: Bespoke garments

02 Dec

Garments Available

HANDMADE ORIGINAL CLOTHES - A variety of leisure, fun and decorative ladies' patchwork.

Aldebaran  Page

Uniquely shaped, with deep kimono styled sleeves and collar extended to hem.

Red-Pink-Black-Cream patchworks.  Knee length with lace-up adjustable front to adapt bust size.

Shamanic Nights ETSY Shop

Purple Shimmers Page

Kimono styled below knee dress, (same style cut as dress Aldebaran) in panels of purples, navy and floral prints.  Close fitted back top, with skirt section gathered slightly below bust into high waist.

Unique adjustable front lacing.  Front lower skirt stitched closed but can be reopened to customer's preference for open lower dress below laceup.

Shamanic Nights ETSY Shop

Cappuccino Page

Two dresses in coffee/cream/black patchwork: multi styled with stretch cotton bandeau top which performs dually as a dress bust hold up, or cummerbund if worn as a skirt.

Two variations: Black lace hem, lined in nylon knit with coffee coloured feature patchwork print 'Love Never Dies'.

White fringed hem version, unlined, no feature coffee patchwork; just cream and black. 

Shamanic Nights ETSY Shop

Tropical Parrots

Lose fit large shirt dress in olive green/black/bright pink with parrots print back, and beige green orange passion flowers front printed panel. 

Lined in black viscose shirt with orange flower print: allows dress to be worn in reverse.

[To be added to Etsy shop]

Tasmanian Blues

Robe dress in blue cotton and viscose; below knee, with unique seed pod applique decoration.

Collar is silk painted, on hand dyed gold collar, from maker's eucalyptus bark dye session.

Shamanic Nights ETSY Shop

Nigella Blues

Short sleeved large smock top in same fabrics as Tasmanian Blues robe-dress.

Front buttoned, floral print lined.

Shamanic Nights ETSY Shop

Cherry Fluzzies

Two patchwork panelled dresses with bright cerise knitted buttoned tops.

Two variations:  An A-line knee length; and a flared wide skirt with frilled hem on knee

Both have same knitted top.

Add to ETSY

Hopi Birds  Dress

Adaptation of scarlet red linen skirt, with linen and viscose back panels using Vogue pattern.

Ornate front polyester print patterned applique.  Maker's hand silk painted lower tie-back panels of 'Hopi Birds' on black, and white.

Name derived from abstract bird designs on Hopi pottery.

Shamanic Nights ETSY Shop

Hopi Birds Grey  - Post

Pinafore dress with full silk painted bib front, and panels of thick grey cotton with silk piped

edgings.  Silk painted front panel of 'Hopi Birds', from Hopi potter designs.

Slim fit hips 34-35: model Marian

Shamanic Nights ETSY Shop

 

Butterflies and Pansies

Frivolous tea party dress in pink and maroon silk, with silk (bundle dyed) sleeves, pink-mauve shot taffeta and cotton with pansy print.

Silk painted front panel of nigella seed pod with butterflies and banana leaves.

[Add to ETSY when sash added]

Kokopelli

Shirt sleeved button fronted smock top dress in grey and lilac, with lower section gathered at bust line.

Lilac/white long striped sleeves have pre-existing turn up tab to elbow.  Muted grey/white viscose rose print front and back. 

Front has large silk painting one side, featuring Kokopelli design from rock carvings.

Shamanic Nights ETSY Shop

Persian Piri Dress

Dress converted from mustard yellow cotton/viscose tunic top, with pink/green abstract print lower frill.  Lace lower frill, sleeves and collar.  Extra long featured two toned pink sash.

Maker's appliqued silk painted panel of 'Piri' figure from Persian illustrations.

[to be added to shop 2021]

05 Nov

Tasmanian Blues Robe Dress and Nigella Blues Smock

Features hand dyed silk painted decorative collar of gold dyed silk from natural Tasmanian eucalyptus tree bark dye

Original silk painted samples dyed with eucalyptus bark dye on my photography site resonant-visions where there are the photographs of the nigella seed pods I used for the applique designs.

Tasmanian Blues Centre front print and applique details

BLUE Patchworks

Abstract with text print blue/white cotton-viscose.

Feather print navy-white cotton.

Navy blue lace lined on gold.

Stylised flowers blue-gold-navy cotton print.

Gold embroidered cotton.

Gold plant dyed silk.

PLUS – Leopard print blue-black-grey and  Chinese Bird of Paradise with gold texture cotton.

Applique Seed Pods Nigella 'Love in a Mist'

Robe Dress has applique lace pod dyed in eucalyptus dye bath after the collar piece. Colour took well, which is a guide to fabric content being cotton or silk. Dark centres to seed pod designs are cut from eucalyptus dyed silk (iron modified).  Light centre to pod is from bundle steam died silk with seeds and petals.  Nigella blues has variable on same pod idea.  A motif is a good means to join over a seam (smock left top). Also provides contrast to break up a solid dark or light area.

NIGELLA BLUES Smock Top Dress

When there are enough patches prepared, another garment can be made.  Size and shape was dictated by the blouse used as an underlining, the colours of which were a perfect match, being cream brown and pale blue.  Short sleeves made in dark blue lace.  Coconut buttons with bound buttonholes.  Applique patches again created with eucalyptus dyed lace and bundle dyed silk.  Back hem is drooped lower.

Nigella Blues Smock – Bound buttonhole sewing – Click to enlarge

Tasmanian Blues Making Procedure

Lining (blouse) is put inside out on model, then outside patchworks pinned to it.  First cut blouse neckline according to style wanted) allowing extra cm for seams.

Short sleeve (blouse) as lining, needed lengthening with cream floral thin polyester fabric.  Fitted on dummy to check desired finished length of sleeve, before cutting length.

Llining of sleeve (partly made in patches), except small join at shoulder top which can remain after cutting open and flat most of the lining blouse.

Shaping sleeve top fit fit curve of bodice armhole.

Lining sleeve having patches added.  Bodice top right has outer fabric pinned.

Floral patch added to upper arm with blue lace.  Floral fabric used for top back bodice top. Leopard print added.

Sleeves layers visible ready for inserting into dress armhole.

The floral patch has gold in which was a pointer to add the gold dyed silk for collar

Fused vylene interfacing ironed onto inside of outer sleeve extension.

Blue and gold floral fabric used for decorative interest. Seam pressed 1cm away from outer hem, for added decorative interest, before cutting rough edges equal.

Pin in place cuff and upper sleeve (when open and flat).  Join seam down length of sleeves.

After outer sleeve patches also seemed to close sleeve, smooth down outer sleeve patches to lay behind sleeve cuff. (Cuff folded over first and pressed). Pin cuff to sleeve; machine or hand stitch down, all around sleeve.

In order to increase the dress size to 38",  to be larger than the lining, and to give a loose arm feel, sleeve inner and outer was left unseamed for 8 inches with 2 inch extra at armhole line.  Two gussets were cut, and added one to dress and one to lining. (see machining images).

Machining gusset side to dress side, from arm seam slit point to empire bust line bodice cut.  I used viscose weight for outer gusset to match with fabrics, and the blue lace for inner gusset, for light weight in the under-arm area.

Lace used for the inner gusset lining; also machined to lining down length of sleeve slit, and joining bodice front and backs.

Join patch pieces to form a facing (take shape from back neck centre, around to front, on dummy). Pin to cotton to make a pattern to cut vylene interfacing.  Or use two thicknesses of cotton tacked in.

Lining fabric (black/blue/cream floral) (interfaced) used as an upper back section to be inserted into a loose neckline.  Smart patch colours (with gold dyed silk painting) joined to form facing, which when turned outwards, becomes the open collar.  Note 'pointed angles' - when turned right way out, become collar points.

Patch pieces chosen  for outer collar. This may be difficult to follow for beginner sewers. Whatever shape is the front of garment (e.g. a basic round neck cut down centre front): this requires a facing fabric, so when top neck is turned out, it becomes a small faux decorative 'collar'. To have a proper back collar would need additional piece inserting around back neck.

22 Aug

Clothes Treasure Paradigm

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'Stonewashed Angels' - (Angels in the silk painted panels) Designed by Amelia Jane Hoskins
A NEW FASHION PARADIGM being experienced by designers, businesses and consumers is one by which clothes are treasured and valued for a variety of reasons other than a traditional economical 'brand' and the buy-today, throw-away-tomorrow fashion business model.THE SLOW FASHION CONSUMER enjoys clothes with individual stories which use upcycled fabrics.Shamanic Nights uses fabrics from charity shops, mostly very new and good quality. 'Stonewashed Angels'  uses coffee/white dress prints, combined with original silk painted panels of angels and plants in colours to coordinate with fabrics used in dress.
VINTAGE FASHION FAIRS are enjoying a wave of popularity as consumers look for more original garments which offer a higher emotional value than the current season’s clothes.
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Shamanic Nights original, 'Guinevere', modelled at Cockington Court Vintage clothes fair.
CHARITY SHOPS are brimming with last season’s clothes. Textile recycling and disposing companies are selling old clothes to Africa, impacting indigenous economies by reducing artisan production.  There are now ethical fashion companies sourcing fabrics more carefully from local communities, such as small scale silk producers, and embroiderers.  
STOP CONSTANTLY MAKING CLOTHES - TO REDUCE TEXTILE LANDFILLHigh street chain fashion stores rush to produce ever cheaper clothes to compete.  Perpetual demand is created by companies who put out seasonal fashion 'trends', providing clothes cheap enough for customers to buy new stuff every season: and every week.   Cheap clothes are only possible due to sweatshops in far away lands, where labour is very cheap, in order to increase companies' profits.  The Rana Plaza factory collapse alerted everyone to slack business practice outside of countries with safety regulations.This merry go round results in a proliferation of cast away clothes, a wasteful situation.  Textile waste statistics are alarming: 13mn tons per year in USA.  UK statistics ?  The constant waste of materials, with their associated production costs, is both an environmental and health dilemma. If you value the raw materials, textiles of ecological origins, you may value your garment more highly, and wear it for many years with a focus more on your clothes being timeless.
A CIRCULAR ECONOMY FOR TEXTILESOrganisation are growing to help with this problem: via the Circular Economy. Repair company. Hiring company. Video Nov. 2020
SOME GOOD BOOKS'To Die For' - 'Is Fashion wearing out the world'? by Lucy Siegle'Shaping Sustainable Fashion' - Changing the way we make and clothes, edited by Alison Gwilt and Tina Rissanan.  Pub. Earthscan.'Refashioned' - Cutting edge clothing from upcycled materials - by Sass Brown.
09 Aug

Robes Summer Coats Originals 2009-10

LILAC LOTUS and JADE GARDEN  (available:)
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Lilac Lotus
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Lilac Lotus
 A feminine gown inspired by white linen and white embroidery anglais.Fabrics: White/mauve/olive silk: Black/lilac polyester leopard print:  Taupe poly-cotton with pink and jade machine embroidery (see closeups)Construction: Variety of oblong patches with high back pleat for ease.Lining:  Fully lined in white brushed cotton, extremely warm - suitable cool bedrooms.Buttons: Two pale gold and white metal 'compass' design Liberty of London buttons.Pocket: Right hand pocket set in seam.Collar, cuffs, Sash belt:  Thick white cotton embroidery with decorative 'embroidery Anglais'.Back length:   46 inches/117cmBust size: 32" 36" for UK 10-12(model is size 8) Robe will fit to max bust 38 inches
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Lilac Lotus
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Lilac Lotus patchwork full length
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Lilac Lotus sleeve patch details
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Lilac lotus front patch details
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Lilac Lotus back view with pleat
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Judith Christie singer songwriter at Pilton Green Man Festival
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Linen Cruise
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Jade Garden
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South Sea Bubble
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Lilac Lotus
Jade Garden Robe (available)
 JADE GARDEN Robe is a substantial everlasting garment in furnishing cottons, with deep rolled collar which would stand up for warmth.  Also suitable as a summer coat. Suitable as a winter gift where warmth is a priority.  Traditional style with gold embroidery highlights on the jade green poly-taffeta.
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My friend Coral modelling
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Jade Garden Back view
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Jade Garden front view
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Print: trees
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Print: French farm maiden
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Jade Garden Robe front buttons and collar
Robe Construction is of oblong patches.  Belt has now changed to sash-belt in printed white/lilac printed cotton seen in other patches. Green fabric is embroidered poly-taffeta, and must not be ironed on 'hot' or it melts (iron with cotton piece over top).  Buttons are pewter coloured.  Lining is brown cotton lawn lower, with cream satin upper part including turned back sleeves.Note: Coral is 5 ft tall, so this is an under knee three quarter length robe on taller women.
Linen Cruise Robe  (sold)Early inspiration for these robes was after acquiring a roll of parchment white linen. Teamed with white/navy prints and cream/white based patchwork prints.Black cotton with pale grey embroidery was chosen for contrasting  collar/under-collar front facing, sleeve borders and sash.This garment was chosen to feature with three others of mine at the 2013 Exhibition: Innovation in Textiles. See post 
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Linen Cruise sash tied
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Linen Cruise front open
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Linen Cruise modelled in Totnes Museum of Costume Exhibition
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Left Silk Painted panel copied from one of the patchwork prints
See robes featured in Exhibition Totnes Museum of costume. 
Oriental Cruise  Robe  (sold)One of the earliest robes in large long patches of Cream and White Linen, Cotton and Viscose Prints of navy/white theme with added silk painted panels.
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Oriental CruiseUpper sleeve silk patch is hand painted silk, an enlarged design copy of a smaller print used in other patches.I can copy any textile design for commissions, change its scale, or create a new one based on any prints.
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Oriental Cruise back pleat
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Oriental Cruise front sash belt
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Oriental Cruise lower patched border
See robes featured in Exhibition Totnes Museum of costume. 
Purple Raj Robe (sold)Patchwork purple robe: cotton and viscose with polyester lilac lining.
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Purple Raj patchwork robe closed front
Patchwork Construction:Back of robe starts with an experimental chevron layout: turning standard patchwork construction blocks 90 deg. which give a diagonal grain, forming a bias cut, which improves the 'hang'. Arranged patchwork continues over shoulders, where patchwork blocks extend down front on the strait grain.  Worth experimenting with, although sides had odd angles to join, resulting in a deep kimono styled sleeve.
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Purple Raj robe, back diagonal patchwork
South Sea Bubble Mini poncho style robe (available)Made when living in Cornwall, this patchwork was inspired by the viscose 'Bali' style print in blue, navy, lilac, olive.  Coordinate cottons and linens match these colours.  Construction is long rectangular patchworks, arranged diagonally starting across back ( see Purple Raj ).  Very loose shape allows fit for fuller bust sizes due to waist deep kimono-style sleeve shapes.  Main lining: Pretty violet soft cotton with lilac flowers. Sleeve lining: Pretty lilac soft cotton flower print.   Buttons: 2 large black-mauve pearl.  Front fringed edge is purely decorative.I plan to add a blue print or applique over the pale yellow which is rather pale in contrast to the black/purple, under grey English skies.  Once on the lookout, something will turn up to match.
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South Sea Bubble mini robe violet cotton lining
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South Sea Bubble back and sleeve
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My friend Coral relaxes in the sea air in South Sea bubble
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South Sea Bubble front view with fringed front buttoning
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South Sea bubble back view shows diagonal 'chevron' patch blocks
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South Sea bubble shoulder close up viscose print
A comfortable warm and eye catching robe. Good for weight disguising due to poncho style.  Will accommodate any sized bust. Size 16 on the hips. Length 36 inches (910mm).  Front is joined by button so garment flows freely. 
23 May

Exhibition Totnes Costume Museum

Shamanic Nights exhibition at the Totnes Costume Museum

Curated theme - Innovation and Fashion 23rd May‭-‭ 14th June‭ ‬2011

Exhibition Curator Hilary Burns I remembered from 1970s Textiles Degree course. She studied weave; myself silk screen printing. Now a basket weaver, she had also moved to Devon.  It was uncanny how she spotted my work at a craft fair and chose for the exhibition.

Museum receptionist, visiting Spanish student, models Linen Cruise

'Linen Cruise'  (sold)  Robe in white linen and viscose prints shows black underside lapel of white linen collar and front edging (cut two collars contrasting) and two patch pockets.  Front has silk painted panels.  Robe is loose T-shaped structure in patches with no traditional tailored 'armhole'.  A diamond gusset is inserted under arm, under the 'T' join. Patchworks are large and long as they were intended to be a bed quilt, until I changed my mind.

'Linen Cruise' 

Large rectangular patchworks in viscose and linen.  White linen wide front band and collar (see museum model shows black embroidered under collar).  Sash belt same: white/black.

Silk painted panel lower right of robe; design taken from another patch, changing colours to navy background to coordinate with navy viscose print bottom left front.

'Oriental Cruise' 

Exhibition featured first Robes made: using white, cream and ecru linens with viscose and cotton printed patchwork rectangles.

Upper left sleeve shows silk painted panel. Design was copied from a small scale print on robe, seen below arm, but with enlarged scale, and keeping same colours.

Robe sold.  A very pleasant scheme which may get revisited.

See more early original robes at Robes Summer Coats Originals

'Mandarin'  (sold)  Modelled by fashion student at Cockington Court Crafts Fair

Short heavy (furnishing weight) cotton kimono dress: deep no-fit sleeves and 'mandarin' Chinese style stand up collar, sleeve turn-ups and bound edged side pocket.

Patchwork contrasts of white/black toile design and orange poppies/olive leaves.  Black and white striped lining.  Unusual colour contrasts for me, but used up similar heavyweight cottons

'Mandarin' - Making

Named for a Mandarin-style collar made with a strip on a curve (cut x 2 on bias): Piped edge in black; also on pockets.  Patchworks of equal 8 inch x 4 inch.  For attractive 'turn-ups', use contrasting fabric.  Sleeves have faux turn-ups by adding black lace layer below last black patch layer, which turns back to be stitched also 2 inches up inside lining, to reveal black/white striped cotton-satin lining.  The seam formed when stitching to lining,  gives a thicker strong line, which will enable a turn-up to sit at the fold-up nicely.

Dress hem is same black lace as end of sleeves. Adding a bottom hem layer 'frames' the garment together; cut double to stitch down inside, encasing the edges of the upper patchwork.   Dress uses same striped fabric for front facing lining for interest.

 

'Bluebird'  (sold)

Dress was also chosen for the Totnes Museum Exhibition.

Features three fabrics: olive silk, royal blue linen, with 'bluebird' printed cotton.

Independent fabric colours were a perfect match for each other, the green silk blending well next to the printed cotton.

Modelled by keen browser in rainy Exeter crafts market.

 

Patchwork robes can be bespoke made to your measurements with your own fabrics. Send me details of your measurements to adjust dummy. If you have an idea of colours, I can show you photos of coordinates in my collection.  Silk painting additional quote on enquiry.

Making fee for standard kimono styled robe with collar extended down front facing.  Style tweaks can be arranged.

Long large patches:   Short to knee - £160,  Ankle length - £200.00

Small patches 8 inch x 4inch:   Short to knee £220,  Ankle length £260.00

Extra materials cost would be lining, as I do not stock new, although I have some thin white cotton in stock.  Robes need lining.  Summer dresses need not, as patches are over laid zig-zagged.
Images copyright Amelia Jane Hoskins Please email for use permission.