Patchwork Bandeau Dress Cream and Black

Amelia Hoskins / Dress / / 0 Comments / Like this

‘Love Never Dies’ Bandeau topped dress or skirt.

Inspiration taken from autumn floral printed T-shirt patch, used in dress centre front.  A second version ‘Love Never Dies II’  is available, same patches, lined, but with white fringed hem.

Bandeau top inspiration: a sliced section cut from ethnic printed skinny stretch dress. (lots left)

Patchwork section attached to stretchy cotton bandeau top, by hand stretch back stitch shown in MAKING INSTRUCTIONS below…

Patches made and joined in strips of three, then join those to make a length as shown in picture on floor.

Seams are overlapped one quarter inch to one half inch, and zig-zag machined to avoid bulky inside seams.  6 different patchwork fabrics are used making up a large rectangle of 11 patches x 3 patches.  Keep adding strips (here strips are 3 patches long).  Make strips until there are enough to join up around hip measurement: then add 2 extra patch widths (two patches) to create piece with some fullness for movement allowance when attached to bandeau top.

An example of how a length of patchwork may be completed, ready for a skirt or bandeau topped dress.  Here the garment will have a ‘skirt’ 3 patches deep.  Contrasting hem helps to finish off.

NOTE:  Black lace patches are made by sewing over a lighter fabric base.  There are possibilities of using different backgrounds for lace, for more subtle effects.

When choosing fabrics, 6 seems to be a good number of alternative fabrics.  For a longer skirt length, 7 might be better.  Experiment. They can be either contrasting, as here, or similar in tone.  Dark – Medium- Light is a good mix.  (Omit black and darks if too contrasting) I never plan how many I will need exactly: there is always enough fabric if 5 garments are used. Only start sewing together when you have enough cut to see how they will sit together.

Muted schemes are more satisfactory and versatile than multi-rainbow colour themes.  The size of fabric areas cut from garments, dictates the size of the patches.  In this instance it was the ‘Love Never Dies’  T-shirt print I started from, giving me two patch lengths when cutting. Featured prints of one or two cuts only work fine if the colours surrounding them harmonise.

I was originally going to position the patchworks in diagonal formation over a bias cut lining, but they weren’t cut square so it would look odd.  I therefore turned it to straightforward vertical arrangement.  Recycling 6 different garments, and cutting at least 8 patches from each, is a good start.  I cut more if I like a scheme and want to make another similar.  I cut enough here for 2 skirts.

These patches are 12.5cm x 18cm cut (approximately 7″ x 5″).  Decide the length of garment skirt section needed, from seam under bandeau top, then divide by three for length of patchwork strips: to be either 3, 4, or 5 patches deep. 3 is enough for this short dress.

Close up of back, shows butterfly prints, and zig-zag seaming flat overlaps.

MAKING GUIDELINES

Zig-zag machining of patches: overlap quarter inch,
making two rows at each overlap (note it is flat,
no folded seams).
Pinning patchwork length equally along bandeau bottom
on the inside.

 

 

The patchwork top folded over and pinned in place, 
ready for stitching by hand, because it has to
stretch with movement and to put on.
How the pinning looks after pinning one section to sew.
More to follow.....
Hand stitched back stitch which gives full stretch
result. Photo of stitch process omitted but IS SHOWN BELOW
when attaching lining to this seam join (Note: I could have
machine-tacked lining to patches first, then stretch stitched
them both together, but I needed to experiment)
Outer view shows small hand stitches (stretch back
stitch) showing through. Quite acceptable appearance;
could even be larger, as a feature.
Stretch back stitch: holding work this way, each
needle insertion is towards you, hand underneath
can test for flexibility of stretch,
to ensure same stretch as patches fabric.
Working left to right, back-stitching into patchwork
section above, and lining section below. This lining
(taken from a dress), is on the 'bias' which aids
stretchiness. It would need to be same width as
patchwork section sewn to, to give equal stretch.
Needle comes back to lining back stitch from upper
stitch. Needle goes in right to left, but stitches
complete to the right.
Finished stretch stitch: inside of dress, just
below where dress patchwork attaches
(also stretch stitch)to bandeau.

 

Join strips of lace for hem trim.  I used a neck
frill and sleeve edges from a lace dress (4 cut
lengths). Press quarter inch in then pin to dress hem.
Machining lace edgings to dress hem.  Zig-zag.
Finished lace trim attached (inside view).
NOTE: dress fabric was turned under and pressed
towards front beforehand.
Finished lace trim showing front and inside back.
Fabric hem sewn to inside lining:
to sit behind black lace.

 

 

Top of bandeau is folded over and narrow elastic
inserted.  Stretchiness is preserved by using
stretch backstitch instead of machining.

To buy ‘Love Never Dies’ dress/skirt please email while Shamanic Nights Online shop is under reconstruction. Both versions can be seen on the shop page for this garment. Second version has cream lace hem.

 

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